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EXPLORE OFF-SEASON THE MOST AUTHENTIC SEASIDE TOWNS IN THE EMPORDÀ

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The Empordà is one of Catalonia's most picturesque regions. Seaside white-washed towns and typical houses overlooking the Mediterranean are some of the most renowned symbols of identity. The Empordà is traditionally home to artists, artisans, and fishermen.


Wandering around the Empordà villages and its cobblestone streets filled with colorful bougainvillea, unique beaches, and small bays, one can feel the Mediterranean lifestyle in its true essence.


The Empordà belongs to the province of Girona, in the northeast corner of Catalonia. It encompasses the Pyrenees, the Costa Brava, and the volcanic region of La Garrotxa. Alt Empordà and Baix Empordà are the two primary areas that form the Empordà.

The natural landscape in the Empordà region is unique and diverse. The sea and the stunning flat coastlines contrast with the abrupt mountain scenery. Harmonic and wild views are perfectly integrated into the land, sculpted by the northern Tramuntana winds.

The Empordà has a rich cultural and historical heritage. Prestigious artists lived and developed their artistic careers in some of the towns in the area. Their artworks are nowadays a remarkable legacy for the Empordà.

The local gastronomic and winemaking traditions have become cultural landmarks for the region. The Empordà is considered one of the top locations in which to taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine flavors.

WHEN TO VISIT THE EMPORDÀ

With a wide variety of towns both on the coast and inland, the Empordà is one of Catalonia's most exceptional regions. Off-season travel is the best time to enjoy the territory in its most natural state, with its environment subjected to less pressure from tourism. Spring and autumn are the perfect seasons to discover the Empordà region at a slow pace and get immersed in a land with all its soul. Even in winter, touring the Empordà becomes fascinating and mystical.

1. CADAQUÉS - ALT EMPORDÀ

Cadaqués is one of the most charming coastal villages in the Costa Brava, located right on the Cap de Creus Peninsula, surrounded by hills in the northern part of the Alt Empordà.

With the impressive coastline sights alongside the typical white-walled houses standing out and the cobblestone paths that line the hill down to the beach and harbor, Cadaqués is a splendid location to spend a relaxing time exploring its cultural richness and savoring the local gastronomy.

The old town is worth a calm stroll, breathing in the Mediterranean atmosphere and paying attention to the little details. The narrow and winding streets full of greenery and hanging bougainvillea, the traditional white houses along the way, and the cute façades with colorful doors are pure poetry for the senses.

One of the most beautiful viewpoints is right in the old town, just in front of Santa Maria's church, the highest point in the historic center. Get inspired by the live music of many artists that usually play in that spot and the stunning views that look over Platja Port d'Alguer. Even though Cadaqués is a relatively small town, there are numerous beaches and small coves where visitors can swim or enjoy the sun reading a book. Some beaches in the central part of the town are Platja Gran, Platja des Poal, Platja des Llané Gran, Platja Ses Oliveres, and Platja des Sortell.

Cadaqués has inherited a strong fishing tradition from the past, and today is still a fishing village. Although less common nowadays, younger generations of fishers working on their boats are part of daily life.

The best way to end a day in Cadaqués is to look over the breathtaking views of the old town and the harbor at sunset from the viewpoint of Pujada des Pianc. Take a few moments to acknowledge the beauty of the Mediterranean landscape with the stunning panoramics and the sound of the sea breeze.

Cadaqués is also known for being the town of residence of renowned creatives. Salvador Dalí spent most of his life in his home in Portlligat, a tiny village within a 20-minute walk from Cadaqués. Today, the house where the famous artist lived from 1930 to 1982 has become the Salvador Dalí House Museum, where some of his personal belongings and artwork are available to visit.

From Portlligat, heading north, explore the Cap de Creus area with its remarkable views. It lies on the easternmost side of the Iberian Peninsula with its outstanding lighthouse, Far de Cap de Creus. There are also small coves to relish in quality time and unwind in an unrivaled environment. Cala Jugadora, Cala Culip, Cala Culleró, or Cova de l'Infern (Cove of Hell) are some of the most unspoiled, and it is preferable to access them by foot.

A short and easy hike of about an hour from Cadaqués to the lighthouse Far de Cala Nans, overlooking the bay, will please visitors seeking some of the most impressive Mediterranean scenes.

2. SANT MARTÍ D'EMPÚRIES - ALT EMPORDÀ

Sant Martí d'Empúries is a lesser-known medieval town in the Alt Empordà area that is exceptionally appealing. With only a few cobblestone streets and stone houses, a central square, and a church, Sant Martí d'Empúries is worth exploring as it has a crucial historical significance for the Empordà region. Sant Martí d'Empúries, which belongs to l'Escala municipality, was declared a cultural asset of national importance.

An afternoon walk through its narrow streets will end up with the enchanting scenery of its calm beaches at sunset. From Sant Martí d'Empúries, the recommendation is to stroll along the route of Passeig d'Empúries towards l'Escala town through the footpath of Camí de Ronda and head to the seafront Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries. This route has access to the unique beaches of Les Muscleres and Portitxol. It is only a 20-minute hike worth the experience.

The lively main square in Sant Martí d'Empúries is an ideal option to taste the regional gastronomy. There are several delightful restaurants where one can savor the typical Catalan dishes. The beautiful views of the church and the tranquil live music in the square will make for an exceptional end of the day in Sant Martí d'Empúries.

3. CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL - BAIX EMPORDÀ

The natural beauty of Calella de Palafrugell will make any visitor travel through the senses back in time to an authentic fishing village that has preserved all its original charm. Discover this seaside gem, part of the Palafrugell municipality, heading south to the Baix Empordà region.

The seafront of Calella de Palafrugell is one of the most spectacular in the Empordà area. Depicted and pictured by many painters and photographers countless times throughout history, this little town has a magnificent setting that attracts curious sightseers from near and far.

One of the highlights of Calella de Palafrugell is its original fishing port, Port Bo, declared a cultural asset of national importance. This picturesque quarter maintains its traditional architecture, with historical buildings and white-vaulted porches. These spaces, formerly settled to seam nets and auction fish, are home to local restaurants today.

Wooden boats, stranded on the sand at the beach of Platja del Port Bo, form a unique maritime landscape. The views from this spot are magical at dusk. Ending the day in Calella de Palafrugell while listening to the sound of the waves and the seagulls hovering over the seashore will shape an unforgettable travel experience.

There are quite a few beaches around the center of the village. Get lost in the crystal-clear waters of Platja del Port de Malaespina, Platja de Port Pelegrí, Platja d'en Calau, Platja dels Canyissos, or Platja del Canadell.

4. LLAFRANC & SANT SEBASTIÀ LIGTHOUSE - BAIX EMPORDÀ

Only a few minutes from Calella de Palafrugell, there is a beautiful tiny village called Llafranc, part of the municipality of Palafrugell. Llafranc is quite renowned, although it lives under the shadow of the more popular neighboring town, Calella de Palafrugell.

Stroll around the promenade Passeig de Cipsela, with the traditional fisher's houses arranged in front of the sea. These white-washed homes have a touch of color in their façades with tiles in different shades of blue, which provides a more prominent maritime style to the seafront. Today, these historical houses share the space with a few local restaurants on the promenade. It is always a good idea to take a break and have a drink or a meal with the sumptuous views of the sea and the quaint beach of the village, Platja de Llafranc.

In the northern area of the village, the panoramic sight of Llafranc Bay is unmissable from the viewpoint of Mirador del Cap de Sant Sebastià, at around 168 meters above sea level. One of the essentials in Llafranc is watching a sunset from this particular spot.

Following the road, slightly upward from this point, discover a lighthouse from the 19th century still operational. It is called Far de Sant Sebastià and is the most powerful lighthouse on the Catalan coastline. Indulge in a moment of calm, observing all the richness of the land from this place that, at night, is even more impressive due to the lighthouse lighting.

For history enthusiasts, alongside Sant Sebastià lighthouse, there is the historical Iberian settlement of Sant Sebastià de la Guarda. It is an archeological site from the 6th-1st century B.C., discovered around 1960, and a 15th-century watchtower. Sant Sebastià hermitage, built in baroque style, is part of the same structure and dates from the 18th century.

This highest point in the town of Llafranc is accessible by a short and pleasant walk or by car.

5. TAMARIU - BAIX EMPORDÀ

Embodied in the municipality of Palafrugell, Tamariu is an old fishing village neighboring Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell. The bay of Tamariu is one of the most impressive and lively places in this small town.

During the warmer months of the year, sea lovers gather around in the littoral of Tamariu for a refreshing swim in the little beaches and coves along its coast before the sun sets. Those who prefer to practice water sports like kayaking, paddle surfing, or sailing, among others, haunt Tamariu all year long. Its singular charm knows no seasons, although it is the ideal location for slow travelers to enjoy the off-season.

Platja Gran is the central beach in Tamariu. Staring at its captivating Mediterranean landscape from the shore, with coarse-grained sand and a deep blue water backdrop, will make travelers feel a sense of paradise. The nearby cove Cala d'Aigua Dolça boasts a breathtaking panoramic of the local natural scenery. Those who dare a 30-minute hike north from Tamariu will be rewarded with the pristine waters and stunning views of Cala d'Aigua Xelida.

Cala Pedrosa is another of the area's most authentic coves. Its natural beauty won't pass unnoticed by travelers passionate about nature. Located the furthest away from the center of Tamariu, Cala Pedrosa is only accessible by foot or boat.

HOW TO GET AROUND THE TOWNS IN THE EMPORDÀ

Every seaside town in the Empordà is reachable by foot, car, or small boat. The recommendation is to go on short excursions through the so-called Camí de Ronda to get the most out of the experience while witnessing all the magnificent villages and the landscapes in the surroundings in the most environmentally friendly way possible. Camí de Ronda (GR-92) is a popular Mediterranean footpath that runs along the Catalan coast from north to south. The different stages of the route connect most of the towns, beaches, and coves in the Costa Brava and Empordà.


WORDS AND PHOTOS BY: SENSORY TRAVEL


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